I was so excited when several trails in the Columbia River Gorge reopened in November 2018! They were closed due to extensive damage in 2017’s Eagle Creek Fire. Media blasts of fire have stayed seared in my mind, and I’d been itching to go see how the forest was recovering. Several local non-profit agencies put in so much work to restore the network of trails in the region! Trailkeepers of Oregon (TKO) and Friends of the Columbia Gorge are two of the better known agencies engaged in recruiting and organizing volunteers. Hikers across the region owe a huge thank you to these volunteers!

Along with the trails, all of the Historic Columbia River Highway officially reopened to traffic. For this post, I selected two short hikes along the highway that can be done the same day: Horsetail Falls to Ponytail Falls, and Wahkeena Falls to Fairy Falls. Both include beautiful waterfalls plus old growth forest that was at the heart of 2017’s fire. This provides a mix of autumn outdoor adventure and up-close fire recovery observation.

Safety First in the Gorge

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Before heading to any Gorge trailheads in the Eagle Creek Fire area – and I cannot emphasize enough how important this is – I did my research. Official channels detail which trails are open, and to what degree. The best starting place is the US Forest Service site for the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. There is a detailed map with a list of current closures across multiple management agencies. Friends of the Columbia Gorge also has a great site with resources to help you locate open Gorge hikes. TKO maintains the Oregon Hikers site, which has a great field guide for finding hikes and forums for recent trip reports.

Knowing what is open is just one part of planning a hike in the region. With the forest still recovering, there are a number of potential hazards that make once-easy trails more challenging than they used to be. Common fall and winter weather, including high winds and days of rain, may cause damaged trees and branches to fall. There is also a greater chance for landslides and falling rocks. The soil in burned areas has less ability to absorb and retain moisture, and waterways may run higher and faster than usual. Never venture into one of the recovery areas if it feels unsafe to do so. Know your limits, and observe all official closure and warning signs.

Additional note for 2020: Several sites in the region are closed or have restricted access due to COVID-19. In addition to lingering closures due to the Eagle Creek Fire, check for current restrictions now in place for community health & safety reasons. While enjoying the outdoors, follow all mask and physical distancing requirements.

Horsetail Falls Trail

The first hike is Horsetail Falls to Ponytail Falls (Trail #438). This out-and-back is 0.8 miles with ~380 feet of elevation gain. Parking is right along the highway. Easy access makes stopping here popular year-round. Arrive early for plentiful parking and photos free of other hikers.

The trail starts at Horsetail Falls, plummeting 176 feet into a pool beneath a basalt rock wall. The area is recovering beautifully, blanketed in mosses and ferns. There’s a plaza with stone walls, picnic table, garbage cans, and an information board about the immediate area. Starting with a gentle climb, the trail switchbacks through trees mottled black with burns. Autumn creates a landscape palette of rich golds, greens, and browns. A closer look may reveal tiny dots of color as tiny, late season flowers bloom in the returning undergrowth.

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The trail’s grade is not steep, utilizing several more switchbacks to climb gradually. The well-used surface can be slick from mud in wet weather. Large rocks and tree roots create trip hazards. Watch your step as you take in the forest landscape. 

In under half a mile, sounds from the highway are drowned out by the thunder of Ponytail Falls. The waterfall comes over a rock wall with a naturally eroded half-cavern; the trail takes you behind the waterfall, where you can – on clear days – get a view down the creek’s valley and across the river to Washington. At this time, you can travel just to the other side of the waterfall before making your return trip back the way you came.

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Trail repairs are still needed beyond Ponytail falls. A temporary gate marked with warning signs crosses the trail; before the fire, it continued to Triple Falls and could be made into a loop by connecting with other area trails. From across the creek, a rockfall can be seen that blocks the trail after the gate.

Wahkeena Falls Trail

The second hike is also an out-and-back from Wahkeena Falls Trail (Trail #420),  following Wahkeena Creek to Fairy Falls. The trek is just over two miles round-trip and ~800 feet of elevation gain. Like Horsetail Falls, this is right along the highway with limited parking and very popular for its accessibility. In addition to a stonework plaza, this stop has a day use area with several picnic tables across the highway. Again, arrive early even on weekdays for plentiful parking and for photos free of other hikers.

This hike seems easy to start, but quickly becomes more challenging. The first segment climbs to the bridge visible from the viewing area, and passes right before the largest part of the falls. From there, the trail gains elevation through several switchbacks over unevenly paved trail, lined with rock retaining walls. At the end of the paved section is Lemmon’s Viewpoint, memorializing a firefighter who perished nearby. On a clear day, extensive views range up and down the Columbia River to include prominent Beacon Rock in Washington.

From the viewpoint, the trail turns to traditional dirt, rock, and roots; uneven footing and mud creates trip hazards, especially after a good rain. Fire damage is obvious with burned trees throughout the area and rockfall still apparent in recently repaired sections. Following Wahkeena Canyon, you’ll cross the creek twice on sturdy wooden bridges. Several small, cascading falls are passed and well worth pausing to observe. 

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A few more switchbacks lead along the basalt canyon walls, covered with moss and ‘weeping’ in the rainy parts of the year. A short climb later, you arrive at Fairy Falls. The water tumbles over large boulders and is framed by ferns, vine maples, and big leaf maples. There is a bench to the side of the trail where you can appreciate the falls and the creek. You may choose to continue from here along Trail #420 for a longer adventure, after crossing some slick yet firmly placed planks over the creek.

Visiting Gorge Waterfalls

Both wonderful hikes described here change with each season, making them worth visiting year-round – with the appropriate gear and proper planning. Strong winds are common in the gorge, meaning the temperature is often cooler and weather can change much faster than in the nearby Willamette Valley. If you plan to visit, be sure to check weather in the Gorge. I suggest forecasts for Corbett, Oregon. Keep in mind, extra caution is encouraged due to lingering fire damage. Pack for cold, wet weather even if the forecast says it will be clear.

Due to both potential weather and Eagle Creek Fire damage, be sure to check for trail and road closures before venturing out. It’s incredibly disappointing, not to mention a long drive, to show up and find your plans cancelled for you.

I highly encourage including enough time in your plan to enjoy the scenic highway and the amazing sights along the way. There are many other waterfalls and vistas out into the Columbia River Gorge which can be viewed from the highway. In good weather, both trails may be appropriate for children and leashed pets.

Additional Hikes

If you are looking for additional hikes in the region, check out my blog posts Portland-Area Starter Hikes and Portland-Area Winter Hikes.